Does organic cotton come from Xinjiang?

David Platt • 9 April 2021

Eco Promotional Product Organic Cotton

Organic t shirts

Whilst cotton is natural fibre which will biodegrade, it tends to have something of bad press on the environmental front. This is not because of the fibre itself but rather the methods of farming and production which involves large quantities of water and fungicides and other chemicals. Organic cotton is the only workable practice which eliminates highly toxic substances from the environment and works long term for the benefit of the planet.

Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and build biologically diverse agriculture. In order to ensure the cotton product is really organic from field to finished product you need to look out for the relevant accreditation, such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) symbol as well as the OEKO-Tex symbol.( https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/ )


So what’s wrong with Xinjiang?

Cotton has been the news recently for another reason with an international backlash over claims of abuses in the cotton-growing Xinjiang region. Several major brands have expressed concern over allegations that members of the mostly Muslim Uighur minority group are being used as forced labour.


As the BBC reported ‘Human rights groups believe China has detained more than a million Uighurs over the past few years in what the state defines as "re-education camps".

There is evidence of Uighurs being used as forced labour and of women being forcibly sterilised.

The US is among several countries to have accused China of committing genocide and crimes against humanity through its repression of the Uighurs.

China denies such allegations, saying it has been combatting separatism and Islamist militancy in the region’ - https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-china-22278037


The problem of course for any brand is the backlash that would come from any association with Xinjiang province and the possibility that by endorsing the cotton from this province they would be seen to be supporting a significant breach in human rights. But it’s not just the appearances – Pavilion and many other companies simply do not wish for their money to be flowing to a region and regime which is involved in what western governments have declared to be genocide.

So does organic cotton come from Xinjiang?


Organic cotton output from the troubled Chinese province of Xinjiang increased by 6.9 per cent according to new figures for the 2018/19 harvest year from Textile Exchange ( https://textileexchange.org/ ) . The latest organic report from the US consultants shows that Xinjiang has now increased its share of China’s organic cotton production to 98.5 per cent based on the latest available data. This means that around one sixth of all global organic cotton was produced in Xinjiang.


The Textile Exchange states it “is concerned about the disturbing reports of forced labour in the Xinjiang region of China, where most of China’s organic cotton is grown, as well as reports of forced and child labour in other parts of the world that have occurred over the past several years.



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How can you tell which items genuinely meet environmental and ethical standards? How do you know your promotional merchandise is eco? One of the best ways is by looking for trusted third-party certifications. These certifications offer transparency, set rigorous criteria, and help ensure that your branded merchandise aligns with your sustainability values. Here's a quick guide to five of the most respected certifications to look out for when choosing eco-conscious products. 1. FSC – Forest Stewardship Council What it means: The FSC certification ensures that wood, paper, and other forest-based materials come from responsibly managed forests that provide environmental, social, and economic benefits. Why it matters: If you're sourcing promotional items made from wood or paper—like notebooks, packaging, or wooden gifts—FSC certification guarantees that the materials are sustainably harvested. Look for: Products marked with the FSC logo; and check the certificate number on the FSC Certificate Search. Visit FSC official site 2. GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard What it means: GOTS is a globally recognized certification for organic textiles. It ensures that fabrics like cotton are grown without harmful chemicals and processed in socially and environmentally responsible ways. Why it matters: Many promotional products, like tote bags, T-shirts, and towels, are textile-based. GOTS certification means these items are organic, safe, and ethically produced from farm to finish. Look for: A GOTS-certified label and supplier. You can verify through the GOTS Public Database. Visit GOTS official site What it means: Fairtrade certification supports better prices, decent working conditions, and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers in developing countries. Why it matters: Products like cotton bags, chocolate bars, or coffee mugs with Fairtrade-certified contents ensure ethical treatment of producers and sustainable farming practices. Look for: The blue and green Fairtrade logo on packaging or labels. Visit Fairtrade Foundation (UK) 4. OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 What it means: This certification verifies that textiles are tested for harmful substances and are safe for human use. Why it matters: Even "natural" fabrics can be treated with dyes or chemicals. OEKO-TEX® ensures that every component of the product—from threads to prints—is free from harmful levels of over 100 substances. Look for: The STANDARD 100 label and certification number for verification via the OEKO-TEX® Label Check. Visit OEKO-TEX® official site 5. Cradle to Cradle Certified® What it means: Cradle to Cradle certification assesses products for environmental and social performance across five categories: material health, circularity, clean air & climate protection, water & soil stewardship, and social fairness. Why it matters: This is especially valuable for innovative and multi-material products. It focuses on the entire lifecycle, not just sourcing or disposal. Look for: The Cradle to Cradle Certified® mark and specific level (Bronze, Silver, Gold, or Platinum). Visit Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute Why Certifications Matter for Your Brand Choosing certified eco-friendly promotional products isn’t just about ticking a box—it shows your customers, staff, and stakeholders that you care about ethical sourcing, sustainable production, and long-term environmental impact. These certifications offer peace of mind and add real value to your brand story. At Pavilion Earth, we’re proud to work with suppliers who prioritise sustainability and transparency. Want help finding the right certified products for your campaign? Get in touch with us — we’d love to help.
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